With a bit of planning and care, you can install grounding rods for a new electrical panel or for an existing panel in order to minimize the threat of electrical fire and injury. Before you install ground rods, call your local digging hotline so they can send someone to locate any wires or pipes that are in the path of where you want to put your ground rod.
Then, dig a hole feet deep where you want to insert the rod. To learn how to choose a good location for your grounding rod, read on!
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No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Install the rod in a location near the electrical panel. Ground rods need to be installed in the ground outside in a spot where they can be hammered 8 feet 2.
There is no requirement for how close or far from a building they should go, but be sure to pick a spot that is convenient to get to and where you will have space to use tools to drive the rod into the ground.
Because of this, it's best to keep it at least 2 feet 0. Plan the route for the grounding electrode conductor. Once a ground rod is driven into the ground, it will need to be connected to the electrical panel inside.
This is done with a wire called the grounding electrode conductor. It's important to factor its route in when picking a spot for the ground rod. Description Flat chisel. Size 1" x 12".
Size 1" x 18". Description Bull point. Description Bushing head. Description Bushing tool, one piece. Size 3" x 12". Size 18". Description Scraping chisel. Description Bushing head shank. Description Seam tool. I watched as the General Forman drove a Ground rod, with out the driver, into the Earth. To his dismay the Rod mushroomed at about six feet in the Earth.
The Rod was stuck into the Hammer tool. We had a swell time trying to get the Hammer Drill with Rod attached out of the Earth. Then it took a few of us with Channel locks to twist it out. Though only employed by them for five months, this company did some of the most quality work I have ever seen. All rigid was threaded in the field no Compression , all rigid was bent to fit in the field, and Cold Galvanized spray was applied by brush to only the ends of Unistrut and to exposed threads.
Justin J. American Lightning Member. Location Fort Worth, Texas. Although cumersome on ft rods sometimes you need a ladder , it does the job quite nicely, especially in hard soil and sometimes soft rock.
You still may get some mushrooming, though. Eritech division of Erico, who makes Cadweld has a hand driving unit. DriveEZE makes a side-mount unit that takes an electric or air demo hammer. There are also a number of other items on the market. Location Connecticut. Give a big rental vibe hammera shot.
I noticed when I floated the hammer off the pin a bit I would get other harmonics that helped get the rod moving again. Pushing harder only slowed it down Carl, the hydro-aproach would work FB on Long Island soil. Get er' in. Hello Everyone, I also used a hammer drill to put in ground rods.
I can't belive how easy it was! Very easy! My big Hilte TE all 40lbs of it has a hammer only function. It kicks butt and takes names. Especially if you have to sink one into the rubbery-assed clay that we have around here. But here is a thought for you rocky terrain people. Since most modern ground rods are just coppa plated steel. Driving them through rocks is definately gonna tear a good bit of the coppa plating off.
If you have acidic ground water, I wonder how long it will take to eat up the steel rod?? You may want to consider replacing them periodically, just for good luck and good grounds especially if your counting on them for lightning protection as well. The Slab Bacon. Howdy, I had Two ground rods in plus the house so that gave me three an then I got that strike on the end of the house where the two were spread out an connected an some of that charge come in backwards on my grounds I lost my Ten-Tec Pegasus an a 30 Amp DC supply arched into my Viker II it sat beside everything an what surprised me the only thing that was on an connected was my Gateway and It's fine Figure that one out..
I Disconnect Grounds to now.. I have thought of it Can anyone think of a reason NOT to use stainless like this?? Seems to me if you're going through all that trouble to install multiple rods You'd use something a bit larger than tiny 6 wire? B, I'd wonder about the conductivity of the steel spotwelds Don't have much usefull information to add You could bury a coupla radiators if ya have them outta old junk cars, but if it was me with that kinda rock Strata situation why not dig down a coupla feet an bury some copper pipe in all four directions as far as ya can, I've noticed my receive on is a much better now with the Copper water pipe hooked in.
The EPA would have your head on a plate. Don't let the neighbors see you bury those radiators.
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